A Feast of Books from Across the NGL

At this time of year, people across the UK are getting ready to enjoy a range of festive treats, so we at the NGL thought, what better occasion to also celebrate the cuisine belonging to the areas of the world covered in our collections. Within this delectable selection is included not only a range of cookbooks – from The Korean Kitchen to three medieval Arabic cookbooks, translated by Nawal Nasrallah (whose other fascinating, food-related books can be found on SOLO) – but also books that explore the cultural significance of food to various cultures.

The book display for this blog post. Books are laid out on a blue table. Behind is a blue noticeboard with images of food and drink.

For example, in Earthly Delights: Economies and Cultures of Food in Ottoman and Danubian Europe, the authors provide essays on a range of topics, from hospitality to the spice trade, while the book Korean Court Banquet discusses all the requirements for a Chŏson imperial feast, including not only dishes but also outfits and musical accompaniments.

If you are interested in the religious significance of food in particular, you can look to Korean Temples & Food, which includes some details of the diets of Korean Buddhist monks and nuns, both historically and in the present day. There are also recipes so that you can try recreating some of these dishes at home, and this book explains how they contain ‘foodstuffs carefully chosen to help the eater reduce the “Three Poisons” of greed, ignorance, and hatred’. This means that they are, among other things, free from animal products as well as garlic, chives, leeks, onions and asafoetida, as it is believed that these vegetables disrupt the mind.

A dark brown wooden table photographed from above, laid with dishes of dishes of Korean temple food, including multiple dishes of fried green vegetables, a dish of cabbage rolls, a dish of potatoes, and a dish of vermicelli noodles. The dishes are arranged three concentric circles from the centre of the image.
Examples of Korean temple food.

Similarly, food and drink to be avoided (most notably alcohol) are a key theme in the fifth sura of the Qu’ran, which is the subject of The Banquet by Michael Cuypers. This is, however, not this sura’s only subject (other topics covered notably include instructions for washing and prohibitions on murder) and, part of Cuypers aim in his book is to find an interpretive framework that demonstrates the harmony between the different subjects addressed, as well as between this sura and the rest of the Qu’ran.

The book cover of 'The Banquet'. The book's details are in an ornate font on a gold background.
An image of the beginning of the fifth sura of the Qu'ran in Arabic.

The Memorial Feast for Kökötöy-khan, an excerpt from the Epic of Manas,provides a literary example of the significance of food – specifically to the Kyrgyz people of Central Asia. Food items are named repeatedly throughout the text, conveying layers of associated meaning, from abundance to poverty to hospitality. Key among them is kumis or airag, an ancient fermented beverage, traditionally made from mare’s milk, which is still made and consumed by peoples across the region today.

A glass of kumis being held by a hand. In the background can be seen a blue vat and the lower half of a sitting man also holding a glass of kumis.

Finally, to finish with something sweet, also included in the display is Taleen Voskuni’s culinary love story Lavash at First Sight in which two Armenian-American women bond over Armenian cuisine. You might remember this tale of belonging, identity, and finding oneself, from the Queer Armenian Library display earlier this year. The blog post accompanying that display can still be found here, and the books can also still be found on our shelves.

The book cover for 'Lavash at First Sight'. The book's details are in red and purple text on a bright green background. Underneat is an illustration of two women touching hands over a table of food.

It’s not possible to talk about all the books in the display here, nor indeed, all the many fantastic books about food around the world contained in the Bodleian Libraries, but we hope that you’ve enjoyed this look at the NGL’s culinary collections, and maybe even found some inspiration. If you’d like to share any gastronomical discoveries from these books, we’d love to see photos and comments – but, unfortunately, food and drink still aren’t allowed in the NGL, so you’ll just have to eat them all yourself at home while we’re very jealous!

Bibliography

Barbu, V. and Jianu, A. (eds.), Earthly Delights: Economies and Cultures of Food in Ottoman and Danubian Europe, c. 1500-1900, Leiden, Brill, 2018.

Chung, T. and Samuels D., The Korean Table: From Barbecue to Bibimbap: 100 Easy-to-Prepare Recipes, North Clarendon VT., Tuttle Pub., 2008.

Cooperson, M., Perry, C., and Toorawa, S. M. (eds.), Scents and Flavors: A Syrian Cookbook, New York, New York University Press, 2017.

Cuypers, M., The Banquet: A Reading of the Fifth Sura of the Qurʼan, Miami, Convivium, 2009.

Dmitriev, K., Hauser, J., and Urfahʹlī, B. (eds.), Insatiable Appetite: Food as Cultural Signifier in the Middle East and Beyond, Leiden, Brill, 2020.

Elias, L. S., Salloum, H, and Salloum, M., Scheherazade’s Feasts: Foods of the Medieval Arab World, Philadelphia, University of Pennsylvania Press, 2013.

Gelder, G. J. H. V., Of Dishes and Discourse: Classical Arabic Literary Representations of Food, Richmond, Curzon, 2000.

Han, K., Pak, K., and Yŏnse, T., An Analysis of Food Consumption in the Republic of Korea, 1964-67: With Projected Trends, 1968-71, Seoul, Yonsei University, 1969.

Han’guk Kukche Kyoryu Chaedan, Traditional Food: A Taste of Korean Life, Seoul, Seoul Selection, 2010.

Hansik Chaedan, The Korean Kitchen: 75 Healthy, Delicious and Easy Recipes, Hollym International Corp., Elizabeth NJ, 2014.

Hatto, A. T., The Memorial Feast for Kökötöy-khan (Kökötöydün ašı): A Kirghiz Epic Poem, Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1977.

Jegal, Y. S., and Lee, H. J., Let’s Try Korean Cooking: The Simple and Easy Way, Seoul, Hanchic, 2010.

Kim, Chong-su, Korean Court Banquet, Kyŏnggi-do P’aju-si, Kŭl Hangari, 2013.

Kim, S., Kimchi: Traditional Korean Food, Seoul, Ehwa Womans University Press, 2010.

Lee, J., Korean Temples & Food, Seoul, YeinArt Co., 2002.

Nasrallah, N., Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-century Egyptian Cookbook, Leiden, Brill, 2018.

Nasrallah, N., Best of Delectable Foods and Dishes from al-Andalus and al-Maghrib, Leiden, Brill, 2021.

Nasrallah, N., Smorgasbords of Andalusi and Maghribi Dishes and Their Salutary Benefits: English Translation of the Thirteenth-century Cookbook Anwa’ al-saydala fi alwan al-atima With Introduction and Glossary, Leiden, Brill, 2025.

Prakash, O., Food and Drinks in Ancient India, From Earliest Times to c. 1200 A.D., Delhi, Munshi Ram Manohar Lal, 1961.

Voskuni, T. Lavash at First Sight, London, Pan Books, 2024.

New Day, New Face!

 

Welcome to the new face of the Nizami Ganjavi Library blog!

It’s been a long time since our last post, but going forward we hope to use this site more actively to keep our visitors up to date on the Library’s holdings, events, and related activities in Oxford and beyond.

Given the theme of renewal, it seems only fitting that the first post on our new site would revolve around the theme of Nowruz — the Persian New Year and a spring festival celebrated across much of Eurasia — which is also, incidentally, the theme for our book display for the month of March 2023!

What is Nowruz?

Nowruz is, at its core, a celebration of spring and – more specifically – of the spring equinox. In the Iranian calendar, which is a solar calendar, this is also the first day of the first month, فروردین Farvardīn, making Nowruz the Iranian New Year celebration.

While Nowruz is celebrated by numerous groups which do not make use of the Iranian calendar, the name Nowruz and certain traditions associated with it betray a common origin somewhere in the distant, pre-Islamic past of greater Iran.

Though the ultimate origins of the holiday are debated, the Persian epic poem, the شاهنامه Šāhnāma of Firdawsī, tells of how the legendary king Jamšēd saved the world from an endless winter by building a gold and bejewelled throne which, when raised up towards the sky, shone like the sun and banished the darkness, saving humanity. In commemoration of this “New Day”, the Iranians celebrate Nowruz < Persian نو naw “new” + روز rōz “day”.

One of the Library’s many versions of the ŠāhnāmaDick Davis’ English translation, Shahnameh: the Persian book of kings (New York/London: Penguin, 2007) can be found on our book dispaly this month.

You can also find جواد برومند سعید Javād Barūmand Sa‘īd‘s excellent research collection on the history of Nowruz, نوروز جمشيد: پژوهشى نوين از پيدايى نوروز Nawrūz-i Jamshīd: pizhūhishī nuvīn az paydāʼī-i Nawrūz.

Nowruz is celebrated in different cultures across Eurasia, so it’s no surprise that there are different ways to render/spell/pronounce the name of the holiday. One book on our display, Fatih Köse’s Osmanlı Devletinde Nevrûz (İstanbul: IQ Kültür Sanat, 2007) relates how Nowruz celebrations were once common among certain classes and populations within the Ottoman Empire, even if they are primarily associated with Kurds in Turkey today.

Here are some other versions of the name for this holiday in languages you may come across.

name language(s)
Navrez Crimean Tatar
Neowrez Mazandarani
Nevruz Albanian, Turkish
Newroz Kurmanji, Zazaki
Novruz Azerbaijani
Nowruz Turkmen
Nûroj Kurmanj (rare/learned)
Навруз Navruz Nogay, Russian
Науруз Nauruz Bashkir
Наурыз Nauryz Kazakh
Нәүрүз Näwrüz Volga Tatar
Нооруз Nooruz Kyrgyz
نەورۆز Newroz Sorani
نورۇز Noruz Uyghur
نوروز Nowruz Gilaki, Iranian Persian
Nawrōz Balochi, Dari, Pashto
نوورځ‎ Nawwraź Pashto (rare/learned)

The Nizami Ganjavi Haft-Sin Table

The Haft-Sin (“Seven S’s”) Table — سفره‌ای هفت سین  Sofre-ye Haft-Sin (Sufra-yi Haft-sīn) in Persian — is a fixture of most Iranian households during the Nowruz season, much the same way as a Christmas tree or Chanukkiah. The table is decorated with seven items, each starting with the letter س S in Persian.

In many regions, Nowruz traditions involve the number seven. Exactly why this is in uncertain, but it likely derives from the importance of the number in the Zoroastrian tradition.
In the Avesta, the most holy text of the Zoroastrian religion, Aməša Spəṇta “The Eternal Holies” are seven emanations of the supreme god, Ahura Mazdā, personified in the form of seven divine beings, each representing one of the seven eternal aspects of creation. You can read about this yourselves in an original-language copy of a portion of the Avesta in the form of William A. V. Jackson’s Avesta Reader (Stuttgart: W. Kohlhammer, 1893), currently adorning our Nowruz dispay in the NGL.

The seven items on a Haft-Sin table sometimes vary, but the standard seven are, along with the things they are often said to represent:

Persian translation symbolic meaning
سیب sib (sēb) apple beauty
سیر sir (sīr) garlic health
سنجد senjed (sinjid) oleaster love
سمنو samanu (samanū) malted wheat pudding strength
سماق somāgh (sumāq) sumac the sun
سرکه sirke (sirka) vinegar patience
سبزه sabze (sabza) greens rebirth

Additional items beginning with س S that are sometimes used alongside or instead of the above are:

Persian translation symbolic meaning
سکه sekke (sikka) coin prosperity
ساعت sāʿat clock time
سنبل sonbol (sunbul) hyacinth spring

Other items are often placed on the Haft Sin table for their symbolic significance regardless of the letter they start with:

Persian translation symbolic meaning
آینه āyine (āyina) mirror introspection
شمع shame’ (šam‘) candle light
تخم مرغ رنگی tokhm-e morgh rangi (tuxm-i murğ rangī) red painted egg fertility
نارنج nārenj (nārinj) orange in a bowl of water the earth
شیرینی shirini (šīrīnī) sweets pleasure
اسفند* esfand (isfand) seeds of Ruda graveolens (rue) banishing evil
شیر shir (šīr) milk purity
بیدمشک bid-meshk (bēd-mišk) branch of a Salix aegyptiaca (musk willow) nature
**کتاب ketāb (kitab) book wisdom

(* Indeed, in some dialects and in older varieties of Persian, this word was pronounced سفند sifand or سپند sipand and would have therefore begun with س S.)

(** The book in question is traditionally one of four: the Qur’ān, the Avesta, the Šāhnāma, or the Dīvān of the poet Ḥāfiẓ of Shiraz. For our display at the NGL, we’ve chosen a version of the دیوان حافظ شیرازی Dīvān-i Ḥāfiẓ-i Šīrāzī — one of many available in our collections!)

Haft-Sin tables are nevertheless as varied as the people who make them, and no book demonstrates this better than Maryam Khosrowshahi’s Sofreh: the art of Persian celebration (London: ACC Art Books, 2014), also on our book display.

In the two-volume set, you’ll find superbly decorated tables, not only for Nowruz but for other Persian celebrations.

Speaking of which, you can learn more about traditional Persian holidays from another of our holdings on display this month, Aly Mazahéri‘s Le Nowroûz et le Mihrikân (Paris: Association des disciples d’Aly Mazahéri, 1992).

Since Nowruz is such a big part of the culture of so many regions within the NGL’s purview, we’ve decided to celebrate this year by adorning our Nowruz book display with a traditional Haft-Sin table!

The board shows even more information about Nowruz traditions from around Eurasia, so don’t forget to stop by before the end of March and see how many of the items above you can spot on our display.